Art Morrison Enterprises Talks About Rear Suspensions

In the world we live in, enthusiasts are constantly looking for ways to improve the performance of their hot rods. One aspect that many find unclear, are rear suspension upgrades. Many suspension discussions revolve around terms like four-link, three-link, triangulated-four-link, and such. These terms get tossed around like we should all know what they mean. We happened across this video by our friends at Art Morrison Enterprises that talks about the differences and pros and cons between three-link and triangulated four-link rear suspensions.

Suspension

Triangulated four-link suspensions have been around for some time. This system has many advantages over leaf spring systems. Since the upper links are angled in, you do not need to use a centering device like a Watt’s link or Panhard rod.

One of the more popular replacement rear suspension upgrades is the four-link. A four-link uses four mounting points (two on each side of the axle and two on each side of the frame). The function of a four-link is to keep the rear axle in its proper place under the vehicle, even under hard acceleration or cornering. However, a four-link does require a Panhard bar to be used to control side-to-side movement. A triangulated four-link has the upper bars “triangulated” to keep the rearend centered under the car. This eliminates the need for a Panhard bar. This design also provides more clearance for the exhaust and fuel tank, and generally gives the rear suspension a clean, uncluttered look.

Suspension

A three-link suspension works as two lower links work together with one center link that is generally mounted to the top, center area of the rearend. This system will be seen with either a Watt’s link or a Panhard rod as shown.

Another suspension that is common on race cars is a three-link. Three-link suspension systems are so-named because the axle is located under the car with three trailing arms. There are two lower control arms that connect under the axle, and one upper link that is attached to the center of the axle. This suspension does also require the use of a Panhard bar or Watt’s link to keep the rearend centered under the car.

Deciding what’s best for your application can get confusing, and whether you are looking to upgrade your suspension for drag racing or hitting the twisty roads you need to check out this video from Art Morrison Enterprises so you can make an informed decision about what will be right for your hot rod.

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About the author

Randy Bolig

Randy Bolig has been working on cars and has been involved in the hobby ever since he bought his first car when he was only 14 years old. His passion for performance got him noticed by many locals, and he began helping them modify their vehicles.
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