Degree a Camshaft for Optimal Engine Performance with Proform Parts

To properly degree the camshaft, we gathered a few essential tools from Proform Parts, including a pro crankshaft turning socket for Chrysler V8 engines, a top dead center (TDC) locator, a cam checker tool, and a 16-inch aluminum degree wheel. (Photo by the author)

Degreeing a camshaft is not always viewed as necessary. Many builders align the timing marks by placing the dot on the cam sprocket at 6 o’clock and the crank dot at 12 o’clock, and consider it done. For a mild street engine matched adequately to its converter, compression, and gears, this “line-up-the-dots” method often works fine.

Before beginning the camshaft degreeing process, we installed a new Mopar Performance camshaft along with a fresh timing chain.

But if you want peak performance or intend to run the car at the track, degreeing the camshaft is critical. It verifies that the cam’s actual timing matches its specifications and ensures valve events occur exactly where the designer intended.

Even a few degrees off can alter the powerband, reduce torque, or sacrifice top-end horsepower.

The Proform crankshaft turning socket features three different-sized keyways. We selected the correct keyway to fit the crankshaft, then secured the socket in place with an Allen bolt.

We wanted to degree in a new camshaft we installed in a 360 Mopar engine. It has a stock bore and stroke, but we wanted to make sure we got every once of benefit from our new camshaft.

To perform the job accurately, we turned to Proform Parts for tools: a pro crankshaft turning socket for Chrysler V8s (part no. 67493), a TDC locator/piston stop (part no. 66799), a cam checker dial-indicator tool (part no. 66843), and a 16-inch aluminum degree wheel (part no. 67490). We’ve never been let down by anything from Preform and were impressed recently with its brushless electric fans. The parts used for this story held true to form.

Our test engine was a 360 Magnum short-block from a 1996 Dodge truck. After a quick inspection, we found a worn timing chain and replaced the stock roller cam with a Mopar Performance mechanical camshaft featuring 0.557-inch lift, along with a new timing set.

The threaded lock on the crankshaft turning tool was loosened, allowing the 16-inch aluminum degree wheel to slide smoothly onto the threads. Once correctly positioned, the lock was tightened to securely hold the degree wheel in place, ensuring precise alignment for the camshaft degreeing process.

Before beginning, it is helpful to review a few key terms. Lift is the distance the cam lobe raises the lifter above its base circle. Duration refers to the length of time the valve remains open, measured in crankshaft degrees. Duration at 0.050 inch is the number of crankshaft degrees that a valve is open from the point where the lifter has lifted 0.050 inch off the cam’s base circle to the point it closes back down to 0.050 inch. It is the standard spec used to compare camshafts.

The degree wheel pointer we used was one that we fabricated decades ago; it was simple, reliable, and ideally suited for the job. The pointer is fully adjustable in all directions for precise alignment. To improve accuracy, we ground the tip of one bolt to a fine point, ensuring exact reference marks when degreeing the camshaft. The top dead center (TDC) locator tool (piston stop) was installed over the number one cylinder. The crankshaft was then rotated clockwise until the piston gently made contact with the stop. At this point, the degree wheel was carefully set to 0°, establishing an initial reference for the camshaft degreeing process. The crankshaft was then rotated in the opposite direction until the piston again contacted the stop. The degree wheel indicated 84° at this second contact point. By averaging the two readings, 0° and 84°, the degree wheel was then reset to 42°, precisely aligning it to the engine’s actual TDC.

The centerline marks where the lobe reaches maximum lift, and when the intake and exhaust centerlines are equal, the cam is said to be installed “straight up.” The Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) is the number of crank degrees separating the intake and exhaust centerlines. Centerline informs when the valves peak; LSA notes how far apart those peaks are. Together, they define the cam’s timing and influence how the engine breathes and performs.

The cam checker tool was carefully seated into the intake camshaft tappet bore, ensuring complete contact with the cam lobe. The dial indicator was then adjusted to allow the maximum range of travel. With everything in place, the crankshaft was rotated clockwise until the dial indicator recorded the camshaft’s maximum lift of 0.371 inches. The exhaust lift was checked in the same manner with the same lift results.

We started by attaching the crankshaft turning socket to the snout and securing it with an Allen screw. With the number one piston down in the bore, we bolted on the TDC locator plate and threaded in the stop pin. The degree wheel slipped over the socket and was locked in place. A simple sheet metal pointer was mounted to the block to align with the wheel’s outer edge. Rotating the crank clockwise until the piston contacted the stop, we set the wheel to zero. Turning counterclockwise until it hit again gave a reading of 84°. The midpoint, 42°, was true Top Dead Center (TDC), so we reset the degree wheel to 42° and removed the stop.

(Left): To measure the intake centerline, he camshaft was rotated to its peak lift. We then rotated the engine in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) to 0.070 inches after its lift peak. We rotated the camshaft (clockwise) to 0.050 inches prior to the lift peak and noted the degree wheel of 68°. On the right, the camshaft was rotated to its peak lift and then an additional 0.050 inches past the peak. At this point, the degree wheel read 152°. By adding the pre-peak and post-peak measurements (68° + 152°), we arrived at a total of 220°. Dividing by two gave a camshaft centerline of 110°, which matched the specifications on the cam card. The exhaust centerline was measured similarly and had a reading of 110°.

Next, we installed the Proform cam checker with the flat-tappet adapter in the cylinder number one intake lifter bore and zeroed the dial indicator on the cam’s base circle. Rotating the crank to maximum lift, the dial read 0.371 inch, equal to 0.5565 at the valve with 1.5:1 rockers, matching the cam card’s 0.557-inch spec. To find the intake centerline, we noted readings 0.050 inch before and after maximum lift: 68° before and 152° after. Adding them gave 220°, which, when divided by two, yielded a 110° intake centerline.

The intake centerline is highlighted in light blue, while the exhaust centerline is shown in dark blue. Both centerlines were 110°, confirming a lobe separation angle (LSA) of 110°. Photo 013: To calculate duration at 0.050 inches lift, the camshaft was rotated until the checker tool read 0.050 inches off the camshaft’s base circle. At this point, the degree wheel read 17° BTDC. Rotating the camshaft to its peak and back to 0.050 inches before the lobe’s base circle, we recorded 58° ABDC. Adding 17° + 58° + 180° resulted in a duration of 255°. The exhaust duration at 0.050 inches matched at 255°.

Repeating the process on the exhaust lobe produced identical results, also 110°. However, the cam card specified 2° advance, with an intake centerline of 108° and an exhaust of 112°. Ours was ground “straight up,” meaning the intake was opening slightly later than intended. The LSA remained correct at 110°.

To advance the camshaft by 2°, we installed a 2° offset woodruff key at the camshaft. This required re-establishing true top dead center (TDC) by repeating the degree wheel procedure.

We verified the duration at 0.050 inch by noting the lifter rise and fall points. The intake opened 17° before TDC and closed 58° after BDC, totaling 255° (17°+58°+180°), which is three degrees longer than the listed 252°. The exhaust matched at 255°.

The intake centerline, shown in light blue, was advanced to 108°, while the exhaust centerline, in dark blue, was retarded to 112°. The LSA remained unchanged at 110°. Although the timing events shifted with the camshaft advance (illustration, right), the duration at 0.050 inches remained 255° for both intake and exhaust.

To advance the cam 2°, we had two options: an offset cam key or using the crank sprocket’s multi-keyway design. Our gear had three keyways, one of which advanced the crank 4°, equivalent to 2° at the cam. Since not all crank sprockets have multiple keyways, we installed a 2° offset woodruff key in the camshaft. After reinstalling the chain, we repeated the TDC setup and rechecked the cam.

With the camshaft now correctly dialed in, we verified the harmonic balancer’s TDC mark. The balancer was installed, and the piston was rotated against the piston stop.

The results were perfect: the intake centerline now measured 108° and the exhaust centerline112°, exactly as specified. The lift remained 0.371 at the cam, the duration stayed at 255°, and the LSA remained 110°.

A strip of masking tape was applied around the balancer’s circumference. With the piston at the stop, we marked the tape to align with the TDC indicator on the front cover.

As a final check, we verified the accuracy of the harmonic balancer. With the piston stop reinstalled, we rotated the crank to each contact point and marked the balancer. The midpoint between marks revealed true TDC, indicating that our used balancer was retarded by one degree, a small but significant error that could impact ignition timing.

The crankshaft was then rotated in the opposite direction until the piston contacted the opposite stop. A second mark was made on the tape. Measuring the distance between the two marks and averaging the values gave true TDC.

Degreeing a camshaft may seem intimidating, but with a clear plan and proper tools, it is a straightforward process. The process confirmed our cam’s lift and duration, showed it was ground straight up, allowed us to correct its timing, and even exposed a minor balancer discrepancy. The result is confidence that the cam matches its intended specs exactly.

Our measurements revealed the factory balancer was off by one degree. While the elastomer between the inner and outer hubs appeared intact, we recommend replacing the balancer for anything beyond a stock street application.

Whether you are chasing consistency at the strip or crisp throttle response on the street, degreeing your camshaft is the difference between “close enough” and truly optimized performance.