Fans of the popular mobile drag racing game, Door Slammers, have just received a major performance upgrade for its second installment. While the free-to-play gaming app for iOS and Android has been extremely well received since its launch in 2012, recent updates and all-new interface have made gameplay all the more enjoyable.
Heralded as “the most realistic mobile Drag Racing Game available,” Door Slammers 2 features a huge array of vehicles and customization options for players. In order to create vehicles that are as realistic as possible, the Door Slammers team utilizes a specialized, on-site workshop, where various vehicles can be examined firsthand. From routine maintenance and product upgrade reviews to analyzing the littlest details on drag cars for future developments, this team’s acute attention to detail is one of the things that sets this simulation apart from all the other apps out there.
Door Slammers’ most recent undertaking is an update that features a fully updated interface, which allows even greater levels of customization and detail, along with better graphics, more background info, and menu transitions that are smoother than ever before.
For those of you who are unfamiliar with Door Slammers, here are a few beginner tips, many of which have been pulled directly from the company’s website. While the amount of customization and tuning may seem extreme to some, it is this attention to detail that makes Door Slammers Racing so realistic and a huge hit with drag racing enthusiasts.
When it comes to engines, a twin-turbo mountain motor setup is suggested for any form of heads-up racing, as it typically generates 4,470 horsepower once complete. However, those who are more into class racing or no prep racing, utilizing a crank driven ProCharger setup is often the way to go.
As for choosing a chassis, traction is key. Therefore, upon selecting a wing (or lack thereof) for a twin-turbo car in the game, opting for a full tube chassis, complete with ladder bars and a wing is highly recommended. For those who prefer naturally aspirated applications, adding a wing and traction bars is more than enough to keep a car planted and pointed in the appropriate direction.
Choosing and fine-tuning a transmission in Door Slammers can be a bit of an undertaking, as this portion of the puzzle is easy “the biggest tuning feature in the game.” Going with a six-speed is highly suggested, as it allows more adjustability. Since the higher the gear ratio the faster the car will accelerate in a particular gear, one must beware of improperly gearing their transmission in the game, as it will create a lack of acceleration at lower speeds.
By taking things gear-by-gear, and running a high first gear, with gearing progressively growing lower until the sixth gear is reached, players can hit the asphalt hard from a standstill, and then stop accelerating as soon as they go through the quarter-mile traps. While hitting the finish line with sixth gear peaking may not be unheard of, it’s often best to let this final gear peak slightly before the finish rather than after.
Gearing set, we move on to the converter, where the rev limiter should always be set to 9800, with your stall being set to 8000. This can sometimes be impossible if the class the player is competing in requires it to be less. Shifting right before the car hits its rev limiter is crucial, so set that shift light to 9500-9600. Just don’t go too high, because over-revving apparently will cause the car to slow down by over a tenth of a second. Launching anywhere between 5500-7500 is typically acceptable, it just depends on how your car’s gearing is configured afterward.
Regarding the use of wheelie bars in Door Slammers, setting them to 8-inches will help catch the car if it leans too far back on its rear haunches. Meanwhile, tires are class-specific, but for something like an all-out car, 34.5×17 is the best option. As far as front wheels go, the bigger the wheel, the harder the car leaves. For the body option, slammed is always best in this simulator, and weight should be set to accommodate a carbon driveshaft. Oh, and don’t forget to set up your line locks if you have a door car, as they allow you to hold the brakes and do a burnout without the car rolling forward.
Now as far as engine tuning goes… you basically want to adjust your settings so that your car won’t blow up. For most cars, that’s going to either fall under the “high” or “meet god” setting. Gearing won’t matter too much if you plan on doing your own tuning, and running 116/Alcohol for fuel is a must, just remember that some classes will limit your fuel. As far as the boost section goes, using a boost controller can be extremely beneficial when tuning a turbo or nitrous-fed car, as it allows power to build at a more steady rate. Meanwhile, timing retards act like boost controllers for naturally aspirated cars, which can also be useful in no prep or radial tire racing.
Next is the instant center, where a side view of the car is displayed along with a little yellow ball. That yellow ball is called the instant center, or center of gravity. The further up and back you have that ball, the harder the car leaves from the line. Getting to a point where the car picks up the front wheels and hovers the rear bumper or wheelie bars off the ground for 200 feet without touching is the trick here. Hit the wheelie bar or bumper too hard, and you’ll slow down really quick. Also, your car’s shocks work much like the instant center, so the higher the shock digits, the harder the car will leave.
Delay boxes are another addition you are going to want to familiarize yourself with, especially when it comes to bracket racing. This feature will delay reaction time, allowing your car to leave on the top bulb instead of the bottom. Heads up racing also require a delay box, because according to the Door Slammers’ website, “…you’ll be about .400 red with a typical heads up car. You can add .400 to the box to balance that out.”