Project Swinger Update: The Prepaint Metalwork Recap

Our 1971 Nova, Project Swinger, has come a long way since its arrival here at the powerTV garage. The once only-nice-from-afar, rusted-out car has undergone considerable metalwork to get it to its current condition. While we were able to patch some of the rusted areas, such as the front fender and rear quarter panel, we had to completely replace others, like the portions of the floor pan.

Here we look back at all the work our powerTV crew has done to get the body of our project car straight again.

When we first peeled back the carpet from the front of our Nova, we had to shake our heads at the amount of rust we found. Both driver and passenger side floor pans were completely rusted out, sporting nice holes to the pavement below.

Upon consulting Classic Industries, we were provided with new factory matching floor pans. Using a cut off wheel, we used the new floor pans to create a template and cut the exact size of the new pans out of the rusted floor.

We then butt-welded the new floor pans into place, spot welding the pans to the underlying braces and cross members.

Although we could have left more of the old metal to create an overlapped edge for the new pans, we decided to cut the old metal to the new pan sizes to avoid future corrosion and create a cleaner look. Seam sealer and primer were then put on the pans to finish off the project.

In order to fit the 18×11-inch Forgeline wheels under the back fender wells, a mini-tub modification was needed. We called Detroit Speed to provide us with the easy-to-install kit, complete with instructional DVD and printable templates to aid in the installation.

After the seat back and deck lid braces were carefully removed for use with the new tubs, reference measurements were taken. We then removed the factory tubs. Notching the frame rails was then completed, made easier with one of the printable templates. We repaired a few places along the frame with 1/8-inch steel before the new tubs went in.

Once the mini-tubs were set in place, we clamped them down, marking dots along tub lip. Welding was done by alternating holes to avoid warping and overheating the sheet metal.

In order to accomplish the reinforced frame needed for the rough driving conditions we’re sure to put the car through, we used Detroit Speed sub frame connectors. The installation of these connectors was quick and easy.

Once we made sure the sub frame was straight, we made a cut out a template on the floorboard. Brackets were then welded onto the connectors for the best fit.

We welded the sub frame connectors to the front and rear sub frame rails and were finished.

A lower section of the driver’s side front fender was completely rusted through, causing us to have to replace a portion of the sheet metal.

Classic Industries provided us with a patch that had the correct bend and just needed to be trimmed to fit the affected area.

Once it was cut to the right size, we welded the patch into place, creating a fender comprised of clean metal.

Due to rust issues on the driver’s side door, we had to replace the complete door skin. The original skin was removed easily by grinding down the factory spot welds and pulling skin off the door.

We placed the new Classic Industry door skin on the door, clamping and tacking it in place to make sure it was a perfect fit before it was rolled over the door edges. The biggest difficulty with the door skin replacement was making sure it was positioned correctly to match the fender lines.

Classic Industries also helped us out by providing us with the patch for the driver’s side rear quarter panel. Our patch consisted of the entire fender wall. We merely cut the rusted factory fender well out and placed the new patch in its place, tack welding it to check the positioning. We then followed the tack welds with stitch-welding which was ground down afterward to prepare the quarter panel for body filler.

We dropped on a new steel hood from Classic as well. While not a factory option for our X-Body, we opted for their slick-looking cowl hood to give our ride a more subtle look.

After deciding we didn’t want to run an air conditioner in Swinger, we decided to patch up our firewall. To create a smooth look, we decided to install a Detroit Speed firewall plate.

This plate is made out of 18 gauge steel with a rolled edge. The area of the firewall with air-conditioning holes was cut out based on a template of the plate. The plate was then welded into place.

While a more “cherry” body usually comes with a heftier price tag, we would recommend trying to find a project with less metal work needed.

Based on how much work we had to do just on the body, we feel that the time spent could have been used better had we gotten a project where bodywork wasn’t as big of an issue.

About the author

Lindsey Fisher

Lindsey is a freelance writer and lover of anything with a rumble. Hot rods, muscle cars, motorcycles - she's owned and driven it all. When she's not busy writing about them, she's out in her garage wrenching away. Who doesn't love a tech-savy gal that knows her way around a garage?
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